Food For Thought
Thoughts from beyond the pond.
“O sacred hunger of ambitious minds” – Edward Spencer. The Faerie Queen(1596)
I enjoy fast food and make no excuses for my love of burgers, chips, and the like. As I don’t eat fast food often, it remains a treat to enjoy occasionally. Naturally, I relish fast food because I don’t fast, but I eat fast. My mother maintained that I was a cross between a Labrador and a sticky-tongued toad. My father has just denied any responsibility for any part of my genetic makeup. I scoffed food as fast as possible before my elder brother confiscated all the good bits. So, it wasn’t genetics that made me eat like a tornado; it was survival.
I grew up in London and learned to dine out rather than eat at home from a very early age. My mother’s main culinary skill involved over-cooking Brussels sprouts for Christmas, but her mother, who also ran the bar at the Hackney Empire, was part-owner (so I was told) of an eating establishment on Lea Bridge Road, which I would frequently visit. My Grandmother ruled the place with a rod of iron, which looked remarkably like a large pea spoon. Dressed in a housecoat straining at the seams, a scarf tied round her head, and a cigarette in her mouth, she would remain behind the counter, never mixing with the clientele. She just stood there dishing out tea, which mostly missed the cups, and shouted at customers to collect their food, which lay on but elevated from the plate by a layer of melted lard. Miraculously, the cooked food never slipped off the plate, despite being lubricated. I loved it, but please remember that heart disease death rates have fallen steadily since the 1950s.
Life wasn’t all lard and blocked veins; there was sophistication. At this time, espresso coffee had arrived in London, and my brother, being older, hep and far from square, would steal money from my piggy bank and, in return, infrequently take me with him when he went to a coffee bar in Soho. His favourite was the 2i’s coffee bar, which two Iranians had set up, but my favourite was Le Macabre, where you sat on coffins (search YouTube for “It's The Age Of The Teenager (1958)”, it is pure nostalgia and essential viewing).
I wanted something with more class, more sophistication. Lyons Corner Houses and tea shops came close with table service by the lovely Nippies in their maid-like uniforms and elegant hats; my father used to take me there. He also worked in the catering industry as a company rep selling kitchen equipment to hotels and large caterers. Indeed, he heard that Lyons had opened a new type of establishment that came to the UK from the USA. Now that’s cool, daddio. He took me to my first Wimpy, and so began my love for fast food. I mean, anywhere that had tomato ketchup in a tomato-shaped plastic bottle that, if squeezed hard enough, the ketchup would fly out at least 18 inches. This was not bad table manners; this was art in action. Sadly, my father died of a heart attack a couple of years later, brought on, no doubt, not by Wimpy but by lard.
It is now time to update the story. A short while ago, I fancied some fast food, so I suggested a Burger King meal. Coincidentally, through different owners, Burger King started in the UK as a rebranding of Wimpy. I downloaded the app and began ordering, not knowing where the nearest Burger King was. I politely asked my dining companion, “Which burger would you like?” showing the menu options. “I don’t mind,” came the reply. I tried to stay calm, because in my world, if you don’t mind, you don’t get! The question could have been, “Do you fancy Spain or Italy next year? OK, you don’t mind, so you can go to Spain and I will go to Italy.” I know from experience that whatever I chose would be wrong once the eating started. Finally, choices were made and entered into the app, and we headed to Whiteley in search of Burger King. The app had advised us not to confirm the final order until we were five minutes away, which is tricky if you don’t know where it is. Eventually, we found it and went inside. I could hardly believe my eyes. Where were the tables with menus? Where were the happy servers and tills? This looked more like a factory than a restaurant. People were standing in front of a board, poking pictures of burgers, then waving a card at it. Behind the counter, the staff were very busy, and every so often, a number would be shouted out in the same tone of voice as my grandmother's, and a bag of food would be shoved into the hand of a waiting customer. I was confused, so I played the old man. Gingerly, I approached the busy food preparation area and looked helpless. Fortunately, a young woman came over, and I admitted I didn’t know what to do. She looked at my phone, pointed to a number, and with a finger, directed me to wait over there. I did, but there wasn’t much to see—just an overflowing bin and an empty table. After a short while, she came over with a paper bag and calmly told me it contained my order. Great, I thought, but then she handed me two empty cups. Sensing my dismay, she led me to a drink dispenser with a long list of options. I asked my friend what they would like to drink. “I don’t mind,” came the answer. I cried a little, dispensed two cold drinks, and we drove home to eat a cold burger and even colder chips.
“The only time to eat diet food is while you’re waiting for the steak to cook.” Julia Child